A Guide to Guide-Holes, or How NOT to Crack Your Headstock

A Guide to Guide-Holes, or How NOT to Crack Your Headstock

Building a well-crafted electric guitar or bass requires patience. As tempting as it can be to rush or cut corners, the most successful builds ultimately go to those with the patience to take all the necessary steps, no matter how tedious. One such step, often skipped by the impatient or the inexperienced, is properly drilling the guide-holes for all the wood-screws that must be used. So let’s talk about guide-holes, see why they are so critical, and figure out how to drill them properly.

Two Paths You Can Go By

To begin with, there are two kinds of guide-holes. The first type is called a clearance-hole, and it is used when the purpose of the wood-screw is to draw two pieces of wood together. A clearance-hole is drilled just large enough for the screw to pass through without biting into the wood. Trying to join two pieces of wood together without a clearance-hole in one of them usually results in a gap between them. This happens because the screw tightens into the first piece of wood before it has tightened into the second. Drilling a clearance hole into the first piece of wood allows the screw to draw the two materials together before it cinches tight.

The second type of guide-hole is called a pilot-hole. A pilot-hole is used when a screw will be driven into a single piece of wood. It relieves the pressure the screw will exert as it wedges itself into place. Without a pilot-hole, this pressure puts the wood at risk of splitting or cracking, usually along the grain lines.

guide-hole crack
The unfortunate result of an improperly drilled pilot-hole.

The neck joint of a “bolt-on” style electric guitar is a perfect example of both clearance-holes and pilot-holes. Because the purpose of the neck screws is to draw the neck and the body together, clearance-holes are drilled in the body. They allow the screws to pass through the body and pull the neck up against it as they are tightened. Pilot-holes are drilled into the neck itself, to relieve pressure on the wood and keep it from splitting as the neck-screws bite into it.

Clearance-holes and pilot-holes
The neck joint of a bolt-on guitar uses both clearance-holes and pilot-holes.

The Pilot Program

Most of the guide-holes you will be required to drill when assembling a guitar are pilot-holes, for all of the various screw-mounted hardware; things like tuners, string trees, strap buttons, control plates, output jacks, and pickup rings. Let’s talk about how to do this properly.

In order to be effective, pilot-holes must be drilled to the correct size and depth. There is a common misconception that pilot-holes should be as small as possible. Untrue. Pilot-holes that are too small do not fully mitigate the possibility of splitting the wood. Pilot-holes should be as large as they can possibly be, leaving just enough wood for a screw to bite into and hold securely.

A properly drilled pilot-hole should be the same diameter as a screw’s “root” or “minor” diameter. This is the center core that runs the length of the screw within the threads. This will relieve the necessary pressure, while leaving ample wood for the threads. It is also important to know the screw’s “thread” or “major” diameter size, or the outermost diameter of the threads. To find these dimensions, use a digital caliper. Measuring the outer threads quickly gives you the thread diameter. For proper bite, the pilot-hole you drill must be smaller than this.

Measuring a screw’s “thread”, or “major” diameter.

If the screw’s threads are large enough you can measure its root diameter size by using the sharpened nose of the caliper between the threads. If the screw is too small for this, look for a drill bit that is about 30% smaller than the major diameter size. I never rely on my eyeballs for this, or on the manufacturer’s dimensions stamped on the bit. I always use my caliper to measure both the screw and the bit.

Measuring a screw’s “root”, or “minor” diameter.

To drill your pilot-hole to the correct depth, first pass your wood-screw through the hardware it will be mounting, and then hold your drill bit alongside it. You can now easily see how deep the hole must be. Mark this depth by wrapping a small piece of masking tape around the bit. As you drill the hole, keep an eye on the masking tape. When it reaches the surface of the wood, your hole is the correct depth.

Using masking tape to mark the depth of a pilot-hole for a tuner mounting screw.

As you drive the screw into the wood you should feel some resistance, but not too much. If you really have to work at it, the pilot-hole is too small. Stop. Don’t force anything. Besides splitting the wood, you also run the risk of twisting the head off the screw, leaving the shank embedded in the wood – a vexing problem with no easy fix. Be patient and remain calm. Back the screw out, re-measure, and re-drill the hole. For guide-holes that will be repeated multiple times, like tuner mounting screws, always drill one and test to make sure it’s right before drilling the rest.

guide-hole cracks
The lesson: drill one and test before drilling the rest.

Fixing a Hole

Some other things to consider: If the wood you drilled your pilot-hole into has a hard finish on it, you’ll want to chamfer the edges. “Chamfering” is the process of creating a slight bevel around the lip of the hole. This bevel “pushes back” the brittle layer of paint around the immediate edge of the hole, so that the screw’s threads don’t have to cut through it, risking paint chips, cracks, and flakes.

Also, don’t forget to take into account the species of wood you are drilling into, and its properties. Some woods are soft and forgiving, while others are hard and brittle. Larger pilot-holes are required in the latter. Roasted Maple, for example, requires larger pilot-holes than standard Maple. As always, pay attention to how much resistance you feel as you drive the screw into the wood. If you feel too much, stop and reassess the pilot-hole size.

One last thing:  never trust a manufacturer’s pre-drilled guide-holes. While such holes are convenient for marking location, you can’t assume their dimensions are correct. This is primarily because the manufacturer has no idea which wood-screws you intend to use. Secondarily, the wood your body or neck is made of might have expanded or contracted as it adjusted to your local temperature and humidity, altering the original size of the pilot-holes. For proper fit it is always necessary to measure. On a related note, you should never assume pre-drilled holes for mounting hardware are a perfect fit either. Manufacturing tolerances on hardware vary, and pieces like bridge studs and tuner bushings should always be measured and compared to the actual size of the guide-hole.

Taking the time to measure everything and drill proper guide-holes may seem tedious and time-consuming, but the problems that could arise from not drilling them properly are exponentially worse. As you learn and gain experience, it is always useful to practice on scrap wood. Even after you have become proficient with drilling guide-holes, it never hurts to take a practice swing or two before stepping up to the plate.

Do you have any more tips or tricks about guide-holes? How about disaster stories? Share them with us!

21 thoughts on “A Guide to Guide-Holes, or How NOT to Crack Your Headstock”

  1. Excellent write up. One other thing I find helps tremendously is to put a lubricating agent on the screws before their initial installation. I use candle wax by lightly scraping the screw threads across a candle, it just takes a little to reduce the initial cutting friction. Bar soap also works well and neither of these makes a mess like oil or graphite can.

    • Lee H,

      Another good thing to try for lubricating screws is a wax ring made for installing a toilet. They are cheap at any hardware store and easy to use. You just dip the screw into the wax before screwing it in.

      One thing to watch out for when using wax, though, is that it blocks a lot of finishes from penetrating wood. So be careful when using it on unfinished wood that you plan to put a finish on.

  2. Online from various wood working sites you can find charts which give proper pilot hole drill sizes for both hard and soft woods. Proper hole diameter is very important, the wrong size can cause screw breakage especially if using the cheap chrome screws most tuners come with. I only use high quality stainless steel screws for my guitars.

  3. Nice article about build fundamentals, which actually apply to any sort of woodworking project – not just guitars. I had learned a lot of this stuff intuitively through experience, but it’s nice to see some of the theory behind it. Thanks for the post!

  4. I can’t believe this email came today. Just this past weekend, I sold a roasted maple Strat neck to a buddy. I already had installed & removed my vintage-type tuners, which he had on his previous neck, as well. I assumed it would be an easy install for him, but apparently the screws on his neck were slightly larger diameter. He called yesterday and informed me he had cracked the neck installing them. I’m now repairing the neck tonight with hide glue and clamps..Dale Latimer

  5. Great article. Thank you for the clarification on the neck holes–clearance vs. pilot holes. I have looked everywhere for an answer to that one as I wasn’t sure if the body needed clearance holes or not. I’ve done it on a few and not on others. With only pilot holes in the body there is almost always a gap in the neck pocket. So this is a huge help to me!

  6. Great. Thanks so much. This just happened to me. Also, I use soap (the soft stuff from the bottom of the bar after it sits in a soap dish) as a lubricant for wood screws. Works great.

  7. If you intend on ‘chamfering’ your pilot holes, use a slightly larger drill bit and spin it backwards by hand to control the depth and size of your chamfer.

  8. JW Guitars here. I have a small dremmel tool that I use with a cutoff disk. I have an assortment of screws that match ones that I use on my builds. This is kind of touchy on small screws, but works well on larger ones. One small cut ,lengthwise, along shaft of the screw, turns it into a thread cutter. Now with a proper pilot hole, screw this into the hole and it cuts treads for your finish screws. I use these screws on hard woods mostly. On soft woods, I pilot, screw in the screw, to make the treads in the hole, then remove the screws and put a small drop of superglue in the hole and then reinsert the screw with wax on it. this way I get hardened screwholes in soft wood that last and don’t strip out easily. All this takes is patients, and you can produce excellent guitars. Most of the big manufacturers don’t do this because it takes too many manhours. Us private luthers can do this and that’s what makes our guitars better than the big guys’ guitars. I can promise you that on any new guitar, from any company, will have a few screw problems. I repair screwholes on new guitars all the time. JW out.

  9. Aggghhhh! Where was this article 8 months ago…when I cracked my gorgeous ROASTED (see article) flame maple neck? I nearly cried like a baby…THEN…I learned how to fix it! Syringes, glue, clamps, sanding, re-application of tung oil. The crack is now undetectable by feel. And I learned a few things…the hard way…But now I know how NOT to crack the neck AND how to fix cracks. I chuckle about the whole experience now, but at first, I thought the world was over. It was my first Warmoth build. Now I’m on number three! Obsessed? Maybe.

  10. It’s also important to use a proper sized hand screw driver. I wax the threads and two turns in one turn out, two turns in, one turn out just like tapping metal. This action cleans the threads of swarf. If the tip is getting worn it can cam out in the softer screw head. I never use a power tool to install screws.

  11. I have another screw issue. I put new tuners on a new maple neck after drilling pilot holes for the tiny screws. While tightening the screws, the head broke broke off of one of them, at the surface of the wood. If the screw was larger diameter and the material around the screw wasn’t so soft, I’d know how to remove the broken screw. But the screw is so tiny and the soft wood easily damaged, I’m afraid to do anything. How do you safely get this broken screw out?

    • The Stew Mac kit is very good,,,, I made my own extractor using stainless steel tubing, I filed a few slots in the end and it works great,,,,, I always throw the supplied screws away when I instal new tuners,,, and put in high quality stainless steel screws. I’ve sold over 20,000 stainless tuner screws in the past few years and have not had a single complaint.

      • Nice trick. Maybe I’ll just make a tool then. I agree, the supplied screws are sub-standard. The only reason one of six would break under the same torque is that it was defective.

        • Screw size is #2 x 3/8″,,,, I buy all my screws in bulk from a specialty manufacturer in the US and another in Canada.

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