How to Fix a Neck-Heavy Guitar or Bass

How to Fix a Neck-Heavy Guitar or Bass

Any player who has had the opportunity to try a variety of instruments has almost certainly experienced at least one neck heavy guitar or bass. They are easy to spot: any time you let go of the neck the headstock rotates towards the ground, spinning the entire axe like a giant compass needle pointing to the Earth’s core. The nagging tug of the strap at the shoulder, combined with the insistent downward tendency of the neck in the fretting hand, can make the playing experience awkward and uncomfortable. This phenomenon is commonly known as “neck-dive”, and while it doesn’t seem to bother some players, it is a major annoyance for others.

Neck-dive occurs when an instrument’s center of gravity falls somewhere out along the length of the neck, rather than between the two points where the strap attaches at the body. Often, it’s because the body’s upper horn doesn’t extend far enough towards the headstock. If the horn isn’t reaching out to around the 12th or 14th fret (or if the body doesn’t even have an upper horn to begin with) your axe is a good candidate for neck-dive. Instruments with especially long necks, like basses and baritone guitars, are also more prone to being neck-heavy.

The top guitar is a strong candidate for neck-dive. The bottom guitar is more likely to hang straight.

If you have an instrument with neck-dive and aren’t bothered by it, consider yourself lucky. For those of us who fall into the other camp, I have compiled a list of six possible solutions below.

#1: Live With It

To live with neck-dive, simply play your instrument until you become one of those people who isn’t bothered by it. This solution is completely free, and requires no modifications. Just make sure to support your neck with your fretting hand at all times. Downside: you have to support your neck with your fretting hand at all times. This includes while you are playing. You will also have a hard time letting go to make amp or pedal adjustments, take a drink, sign autographs, or high-five fans. Bummer.

#2: Get a Grip

You may be able to alleviate some of the symptoms of neck-dive by using a wide strap, or one with a grippy cotton or suede back. The idea is to increase the friction of the strap where it passes over your shoulder, thus reducing the neck’s propensity to drop. For some people, and some instruments, this simple fix is all that is needed. Downside: the neck still wants to drop, and when it does your strap is going to take your shirt with it, eventually resulting in your entire shirt sitting in an unsightly wad atop your shoulder. From the front you’ll look like Quasimodo. From the back…well…let’s just say it’s ugly.

#3: Hook In

One interesting solution I’ve seen is to attach a mountain-climber’s carabiner to the back of your guitar strap, near where it passes your waistline. With the guitar in playing position, hook the carabiner through a belt loop. This definitely works to hold the guitar in optimum playing position. Downside: Just as with the grippy strap, you haven’t actually changed the balance of your instrument. The neck will still want to drop, but now it’s your pants that will be going along for the ride. From the front, all looks good. From the back…still ugly.

#4: Add Some Ballast

Adding weight to an instrument’s lower bout is another common trick, and one that actually changes its balance. BB’s or lead fishing weights, stored in a nylon sock and tucked inside the control cavity, add ballast without changing the instrument’s outward appearance. If you try this be sure to insert a non-conductive barrier between the sock and your guitar’s electronics. Alternatively, you can try adding a weighted pouch (a wireless transmitter pouch works great for this) to the end of your strap nearest the bridge. Your audience will be able to see it, but you won’t risk damage to your instrument’s internal wiring, and you can easily remove it at any time. Downside: you increase the total weight you have to carry on your shoulder. This may not be a concern for you. However, if weight was a factor when you acquired the instrument in the first place, the last thing you want is to do is add more to get it to balance properly.

#5: Jettison Some Cargo

Rather than adding weight to the lower bout, you can try reducing weight at the headstock. The biggest culprit here is usually the tuners, especially locking tuners that incorporate bulky mechanisms. Many manufacturers sell a lightweight version of their tuners. Check their specs to compare. You can also choose tuners that use a pearloid button rather than metal a one to save a little weight. Some brands even sell replacement pearloid buttons for their tuners, making it possible to shave some weight off of the tuners you already have. Downside: you can’t use any tuner you want, and the weight you save is going to be very minimal. However, tuners do exert a lot of leverage by virtue of being located at the end of a long neck, and every little bit helps. Depending on the instrument in question, lighter tuners may be enough to tip the balance.

#6: Move the Buttons

In my experience the locations of the strap buttons – the balance points from which the instrument hangs – have the biggest effects on whether the neck dips. To improve the instrument’s balance, change the strap button positions. Downside: you may have to drill new holes in the guitar. Before making that commitment, use gaffer tape to experiment with placing your strap ends in alternate positions (being extremely careful to support the entire instrument as you do so). Many neck-heavy guitars and basses balance better when the strap button nearest to the neck is relocated from the upper horn to the heel. This is easier if your instrument is a set-neck or neck-through design. If yours is a bolt-on design that uses a metal heel-plate, this can be tricky. You have some options. To situate the button in the center of the heel, you will need to drill a hole in the heel-plate. If that isn’t your thing, you can also consider attaching the button to the end of the heel, rather than the back. A final solution, and one that doesn’t require drilling new holes, is to remove one of the neck screws, and replace it with one that is long enough to also accommodate a strap button. If you try this, be certain to measure carefully. A screw that is too long could come through your fretboard and ruin your day.

A strap button mounted on a heel plate. A hole was drilled in the plate to let the screw pass through.

May the Gravitational Force Be With You

And there you have it: my best suggestions for rebalancing a neck-heavy guitar or bass. Hopefully one of them – or possibly a combination of them – will work for you. Results will vary greatly depending upon your instrument, your body, your tolerance level, and your playing style, so be prepared to experiment.

Have a suggestion I didn’t mention? By all means, let us know!

15 thoughts on “How to Fix a Neck-Heavy Guitar or Bass”

    • The picture of the Iceman just saved the day for my Jackson Kelly 3. I have been searching for over a year to reliable fix the balance issue it had. I just moved the front strap button to the top of the heel like on the Iceman, and now no more neck dive.

      Thank you!!

  1. Cool Scott! Your photo is a perfect example of locating the strap button on the end of a heel. Extra bonus points for using the best strap button currently on the market. Every single one of my guitars gets those particular strap buttons. Need proof? The photo in the article above of the button mounted on the heel plate is my guitar. Same strap button! 🙂

  2. thanks for your tips I have a Fender Telecoustic with this ‘neck heavy’ tendancy I’m going to try repositioning the strap button. on that, My best regards, Kenny

  3. Hootenanny strap – strap wrapped around headtock just above the nut. Worked a miracle on my country gentleman gretsch bass. No drilling – no added weight, use a shoe lace and give it a try. Easy.

    My bass is hands free will stay at any angle and will also shift laterally and holds its place.

  4. I have a couple of basses that are neck-heavy. I have found that I can counter the dive by resting my right forearm on the body as I play. That locks the neck into a horizontal-ish position so my left hand is free to play and not support the weight of the neck. I’m not sure you could do it with the Explorer pictured above, but it works with a T-bird.

  5. Love the strap on bolt on plate advice. Did the trick on my neck heavy T style partscaster (warmoth fatback roasted maple + ultra light swamp ash body – yeah recipe for disaster). Not only corrected the tendency to dive. Found a spot that allows guitar to balance with neck at a classical style angle!

  6. Buy an antique German spike helmet. Tie fishing line from spike to behind the nut. Shake head violently until guitar falls apart. Problem solved.

  7. Geoffrey- I was making sure I understood correctly. So the strap button on the bridge end of the body gets moved higher then where it is currently.

  8. The Explorer in the top of the picture will not have any neck dive. I own one Epiphone Exlorer and two Gibson Explorers and they are balanced perfectly by the big hunk of wood body that they have. Both in thickness and the wedge pointing out the back. The biggest culprits I have found are Epiphone SG’s. The body is about half as thick as a Les Paul/Explorer and the entire weight of the neck is suspended beyond the body. I have tried moving the strap button from the tip of the horn to the heel where the neck joins to the body. I have replaced the grover tuners with lighter weight ones. I tried adding over 3 ounces of lead fishing weights in the body cavity and it was not enough weight to counteract the neck dive. I found that the Dunlop or Schaller strap locks rotate too easily and make the neck dive worse. A suede strap helps, as the vinyl straps easily slide on clothing. Sadly, still looking for a permanent solution.

  9. I use a 1.5 velcro wrist weight people use when jogging. I velcro it around my strap where it connects to the bottom of my guitar. Great ballast, it did the trick! I also put some anti-slip sticker pad on the underside of my strap.

  10. Like Dale said – it’s very funny that an Explorer was used as an example for neck dive. It’s one of the best balanced guitars out there! The big tail fin plus gravity keeps it level and also pushes the body a bit towards your left, so your right hand can naturally stay near the center of your body where it’s very comfortable to play. Try it out at a music store!

    Also, a strap button on a long upper horn may prevent neck dive, but it also moves the body further to your right. For me that’s almost as annoying as having to hold the neck up.

  11. I built my Jazz bass with a Warmoth Swamp Ash body so it’s a bit lighter than most Fender J-bass bodies that are typically made from heavier wood. To help it balance out I also used a Warmoth bass neck with a Tele headstock. There’s a bit less wood in a Tele headstock than in a J-bass headstock. This worked perfectly. This bass is really comfortable to play.

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